We wanted to stay another night on the slopes of the eternally simmering volcano that is the island of Stromboli, but a nasty Mediterranean storm was gathering in the Tyrrhenian Sea off Sicily and heading our way. The hotel keeper told us it was now or never, and we believed her. We could see the thunderclouds looming and blending with the smoke leaking out of the mountaintop. The sea had turned a dull, ominous shade of gray, and the atmosphere was thickening by the minute. So we raced around Piscità and San Bartolo, snapping photographs of the gloomy day, and caught the last ferry off the island. Only then did we realize that we hadn’t photographed a single islander. The entire population had vanished indoors to ride out the storm.