Category Archives: europe

October 25

11 Bretagne

  We went to Bretagne looking for oysters, both to eat and as a photographic subject. After all, this was where Louis XIV arrived at the Bélon River on a campaign of conquest and found the Ostrea Edulis–or Edible Oyster–or Huître de Bélon–or Bélon Flat Oyster–that revolutionized seafood tastes from Paris onward. But more than mollusks, we […]

October 18

11 København

  For years, København has been ranked the coolest city on the planet and the international city with the highest quality of life. Smart urban and environmental planning with open spaces, safe, clean streets, cyclist- and pedestrian-friendly byways, widespread accessibility, loads of culture, and all kinds of restaurants. All of this comes at a high […]

October 10

11 Stromboli

…So we raced around Piscità and San Bartolo, snapping photographs of the gloom, and caught the last ferry back to the mainland. Only then did we realize that we hadn’t photographed a single islander. The entire population had vanished indoors to ride out the storm.

October 09

11 Père-Lachaise

Molière, Eugène Delacroix, Georges Bizet, Frédéric Chopin, Honoré de Balzac, Marcel Proust, Oscar Wilde, Sarah Bernhardt, Isadora Duncan, Gertrude Stein, Colette, Edith Piaf, Marcel Marceau, Richard Wright, Yves Montand, and Jim Morrison all slept here… And still do.

October 04

11 Dubrovnik

  The name translates into English as “Oak Grove,” but there aren’t many oaks in evidence around the Old Town World Heritage Site here. The nearest greenery lies in the hills above, from which the Serbs and Montenegrins shelled the city during the seven-month siege of 1991. Not much damage was done in the Croatian War for Independence, […]

October 03

11 Bastille Day

  The mother of all Bastille Day parades stretches on the morning of July 14 from the Arc de Triomphe down the Champs-Élysées and up Rue Royale to the Place de la Madeleine on the Right Bank of Paris. For one day each year, the ultra-civilized French put down their forks and wine glasses and […]

October 02

11 Skagerrak

We actually thought we were going to the Baltic on this trip, but it turns out that the Baltic doesn’t even start until you pass through the Danish Belts and Sounds outside København. These photos are evenly distributed between the North Sea, the Skagerrak, and the Kattegat–the three massive seas that envelope the Jutland peninsula […]

October 01

11 Auschwitz

  On the day we photographed this place, a vast meteorological storm had pursued us all the way from Germany no less, and caught up at 16:30 as we were leaving. So the gloom in the color photos is unintentional, if appropriate. We’ll leave it to the viewer to decide whether horror shows like this one […]

October 01

11 Marseille

  In Anthony Bourdain’s visit to Marseille for Parts Unknown, he marvels at how a city so beautiful and well fed could have earned so ugly a reputation. He shouldn’t be surprised. The Marseillaise have been working on the unrulier bits of that reputation ever since the earliest French kings tried to lure them into joining Provence and […]

October 01

11 Sicilia

Sicily today reminds the casual traveler of the southern Italy of fifty years ago–a chaotic stew of wealth and poverty; ruins, rust, and garbage; volcanoes and rugged seascapes; overcrowded markets and alleyways; public art and rampant pollution; with world-class wine, pasta, and fish around every corner. Poverty, of course, is a relative term these days. The Italian state has been pouring money into the […]